If your current bill has an actual reading, it’s worth checking the reading on your previous one. If that one was estimated, it might have been too low which means your current bill might be more than you expected.

There are two types of gas meter. Imperial meters measure gas in hundreds of cubic feet. Metric meters measure gas in cubic meters.

Check the front of your meter to see what type it is. An imperial meter will have the letters 'ft3' on it. A metric meter will have the letters 'm3'. The meter serial number should be on the front of your meter as well. You should check that it matches the serial number on your bill.

We bill you in kilowatt hours (kWh) and show how we work these out on your bill. If we’ve got your meter type as imperial, this working out will show 'x 2.83'. If we've got your meter type as metric, it won’t.

If you think we’re billing you using the wrong meter type, please contact us.

On your gas bill, you’ll notice that we bill in you in kWhs. Gas meters don’t measure gas in kWhs so we have to use a calculation to get from the units you’ve used to kWhs:

Number of unit used x 2.83 (if the meter measures in hundreds of cubic feet) x calorific value x conversion factor / 3.6 = kWh 

Here’s a break down to make it easier to understand:

1. First the number of units used. This is worked out by taking your previous billed reading away from your current billed reading.
2. If the meter measures in hundreds of cubic feet (has an ft3 on the front of it), we multiply the units used by 2.83 to convert them to cubic metres. If the meter already measures in cubic metres (has an m3 on the front on it) we don’t need to do this.
3. We multiply what we have by the calorific value. This value changes slightly on each bill. The calorific value is a measure of the energy in the gas. It’s tested in the gas network  and passed to us daily.
4. We multiply the new figure by a conversion factor. This figure takes into account changes to the gas based on several things like temperature and pressure.
5. We divide what’s left by 3.6 to give us the number of kWhs used.

All energy suppliers have to use the same calculation when working out gas usage.

Most appliances now have an energy efficiency rating shown on them so you can quickly and easily work out how much they cost to run.

If they don’t, look for the serial number on the appliance and you’ll find the wattage. The lower the rating (which means a higher wattage), the more electricity it will use.

For example, a 1kW (kilowatt or 1000 watt) heater uses one unit of electricity per hour, whilst a 100-watt light bulb uses one unit of electricity every 10 hours.

It’s possible a faulty appliance can use more energy than it should and increase the amount of your bill. If you think there could be a problem with one of your appliances, it’s a good idea to arrange for a qualified electrician to look at it.

For added peace of mind and a guarantee for any work done, you should choose an electrician approved by the National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting (NICEIC). Your local directory should provide a list of approved electricians. But you can search for a local contractor by using the NICEIC website. 

Everyone uses gas and electricity differently.  Differences in homes and lifestyle will effect how much their energy bills are.  We’ve gathered a few of the most common differences below:

• The number of people living in the property.
  If the property you are comparing with has fewer people living in it, then it will probably mean they’re using less gas and electricity. They'll be using the shower, washing machine and tumble dryer less and will probably be using other day to day appliances less.

 

• The age of the two properties.
  A newer property is likely to be more energy-efficient and have better insulation.

 

• The position of both properties in the street.
  A mid-terrace house will benefit from the heat of the houses on either side, whereas an end-terrace house will not. A property that gets more sun is likely to be warmer and lighter so will use less energy than one in a shady lot.

 

• Differences in roof and wall insulation.
  Up to 25% of heat can be lost through the roof and up to 35% through the walls. Having the ideal amount of insulation will help keep the heat in and save you money. And it doesn’t have to be expensive to fit. See our advice on loft and wall insulation to find out about the help you can get towards the cost of insulating your home.

 

• Differences in double glazing.
  Double glazing could save you money on your energy bills, but this doesn’t necessarily mean having new windows fitted. You can save money just by fitting secondary glazing panels. See our energy efficiency advice to find out more. 

 

• Differences in the insulation of the hot water tank and pipes.
  Insulating your hot water tank and pipes could save you money and prevents pipes from freezing in cold weather.